OYSTERS & SEAFOOD

Oysters

Formerly, oysters were a commonplace food. In steak and oyster pie, they were used to make the steak go further. They changed into being an expensive delicacy because the British oyster population was severely undermined both by disease and by a succession of hard winters.

In Britain it has traditionally been said that oysters should only be eaten during a month that has an r in its name. (Some people choose to sport boaters rather than bowlers during the r-less season.)

It is claimed that the Lighthouse Building (1875) at the King's Cross end of Gray s Inn Road was to advertise an oyster house.

Bentley's

Bentley's deals directly oyster farmers rather than using middlemen.

Grottoes

Children used the shells to build grottoes that after dark would be lit by rushlights. Passersby would be asked for A penny for the grotto. The practice survived into the 20^thC.

Richard Haward's Oysters

In 2019 Haward's was being worked by the eighth-generation of the family.

Location: Borough Market, 35 Stoney Street, SE1 9AA

Website: https://richardhawardsoysters.shop

Dr Johnson

Every day Dr Johnson would buy a dozen oysters for Hodge. He did not wish discommode any of his servants by having them undertake the tasks.

St James's Day

There was a proverb He who eats oysters on St James's Day will not want money. As a result, in the 19^thC, a lot of oysters were eaten on 25 July.

Seafood

Tubby Isaacs

Tubby Isaacs is a stall that sells jellied eels and seafood. The business was founded in 1919. He and his brother Barney had a bad falling out with one another. The latter established his own stall a few yards along the street. The men did not speak to one another for decades.

Location: Goulston Street, E1 7TP

David Backhouse 2024