CLOTHES DESIGN ASSOCIATED

Ole Peder Bertelsen

Ole Peder Bertelsen (1930-2018) was a Dane who made money as an oil trader. In the early 1980s he oversaw the sale of a ranch in Colorado to the American designer Ralph Lauren, who expressed his gratitude by entrusting his European operation to him. The set-up did not prove durable but Bertelsen was approached by both Armani and Valentino to fulfil a similar role. He credited with having stimulated into being the presence of so many outlets for Italian clothing brands along much of both New Bond Street and Sloane Street.

Location: New Bond Street, W1S 1DQ (orange, purple)

Berwick Street Fabric Shops

Berwick Street fabric shops.

Location: Berwick Street, W1F 0PN (red, red)

Colleges

Up until the late 1970s it had been customary for the most talented fashion graduates of Central St Martins to go to work in Paris and Milan. However, with the advent of punk and then the New Romantics, some, such as Katharine Hamnett and Rifat Ozbek, chose to remain in London and establish their own businesses.

See Also: ART COLLEGES

Central St Martins

Location: 1 Granary Square, King's Cross, N1C 4AA (purple, brown)

Website: www.arts.ac.uk/colleges/central-saint-martins/about-csm/our-programmes/fashion-programme

Fashion Retail Academy

The London College of Fashion

Location: 20 John Prince's Street, W1G 0BJ (orange, yellow)

Website: www.arts.ac.uk/colleges/london-college-of-fashion

The College of Garments & Trades

The College of Garments & Trades, Shoreditch.

The Royal College of Art

Madge Garland (n e McHarg) (1898-1990) was Vogue's fashion editor from 1932 to 1942. In 1948 she, established the Royal College of Arts's Fashion & Textiles course. The program's initial accommodation was in.

Location: 20 Ennismore Gardens, SW7 1AA (blue, yellow)

Website: www.rca.ac.uk/study/programme-finder/textiles-ma

Embroidery

Fine Cell Work

Fine Cell Work is a charity that teaches prisoners to embroider. It was founded by Lady Anne Tree in 1997.

Location: 190-192 Queenstown Road, SW8 3NR

Website: www.finecellwork.co.uk

Hand & Lock

Hand & Lock Embroiderers is a custom embroidery business. The business was based in Lexington Street for many years

Hand was a wire embroidery business that dated back to 1769. The business served the military.

S. Locke was a couture beading business. It was founded in 1898. Stanley Locke acquired the firm in 1956.

Location: 86 Margaret Street, W1W 8TE (blue, purple)

Prize: The International Hand & Lock Prize seeks to encourage embroidery.

Website: https://handembroidery.com

The Royal School of Needlework.

The Royal School of Needlework.

Location: Hampton Court Palace, KT8 9AU

Website: https://royal-needlework.org.uk

Fashion Journalism

Isabella Blow

Isabella Blow (n e Delves Broughton) (1958-2007) worked as a fashion editor for various magazines. She helped promote the careers of the hat designer Philip Treacey and the clothes Alexander McQueen. In turn, she provided them with a workshop in the basement of her mother-in-law's Belgravia home.

Gender

London fashion has been largely male-driven, which contrasts with the predominant European pattern.

Haberdashers

MacCulloch & Wallis

MacCulloch & Wallis sells haberdashery and fabrics. The business was founded in 1902.

Location: 25-26 Poland Street, WIF 8QN (red, brown)

Website: www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk

The Morrisons

James Morrison (1789-1857) was a wholesale haberdasher. He built his business by having low prices rather than relying on salesmanship

Location: 93 (formerly 57) Harley Street, W1G 6AD. James Morrison's home. (blue, yellow)

London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week is a week-long trade fair that enables fashion houses and British-based designers to display their latest design to buyers and the media. The first one was held in 1984 after the British Designer Show and the London Designer Collections had merged their events. In 1993 the British Fashion Council took the organisation the Week.

Annette Worsley-Taylor (1944-2015) and Tania Soskin met while working for Christian Dior in London. Together, they opened the Tsaritsar boutique in Knightsbridge. Subsequently, she opened Taylor & Hadow with Jenny Hadow in Beauchamp Place. The designers whose work Worsley-Taylor stocked included Bruce Oldfield. She came to the conclusion that the work of the emerging new designers did not sit well in the existing trade shows. In 1974 she persuaded the Clothing Export Council to pay for The New Wave Exhibition & Fashion Show, an event at The Ritz that showcased Oldfield's work and that of eight other young designers.

In 1975 Worsley-Taylor set up the London Designers Collections (L.D.C.). It was a body that was financed by designers and run by them. The collective enabled London to become an international centre for fashion.

In 1983 Worsley-Taylor wrote a paper that the London Designers Collections presented to the Department of Trade & Industry. It asked for funding for a permanent London Fashion Week office. As a result, the British Fashion Council was formed in 1984 with state funding for the first time. The same year it and the L.D.C. jointly staged the first London Designer Show at the Commonwealth Institute in Holland Park. The former organisation handled both the aesthetics of the show and the parties afterwards. It became London Fashion Week, an annual event.

In 1991 Worsley-Taylor concluded that at Olympia the London Designer Show was becoming stale. She transferred the event to the Duke of York's Headquarters. The following year she wrote a paper for the Department of Trade & Industry on how British fashion could be supported and promoted. In 1993 the British Fashion Council took the organisation the Week.

The Week's principal venue migrated from the Headquarters to the Natural History Museum and then to Somerset House.

In 2006 Worsley-Taylor stepped down from London Fashion Week.

Location: Tsaritsar, 4 Pont Street, SW1X 8EL (red, purple)

Website: https://londonfashionweek.co.uk www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk

Museums

The Fashion & Textile Museum

The Fashion & Textile Museum hosts exhibitions of contemporary fashion, textiles, and jewellery. It was founded by the clothes designer Zandra Rhodes. The Museum building was designed by the architect Ricardo Legorreta Vilchis (1931-2011).

In 2006 Newham College of Further Education acquired the Museum.

Location: 83 Bermondsey Street, SE1 3XF

Website: https://fashiontextilemuseum.org

The Victorian & Albert Museum

The photographer and set designer Cecil Beaton acquired from his friends the garments that formed the core of the V.& A.'s collection. His friends complained that after he had visited them they were left with nothing which to wear.

Location: Cromwell Gardens, SW7 2RL (orange, grey)

Website: www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion

David Backhouse 2024